The Best Eyebrow Pencils for Older Women in 2026: Sparse, Gray, and Thinning Brows Solved
Most brow pencils are designed for people who already have brows. That sentence sounds absurd until you watch a 58-year-old drag a hard, waxy drugstore stick across skin that has lost half its collagen and a brow line that has been quietly retreating toward the temples since her forties. The pigment skips. The tip tugs. The result looks less like “natural definition” and more like someone drew two commas on a forehead with a tired crayon.
The best eyebrow pencil for older women is not simply a softer version of a bestseller. It is a different tool for a different job. The tip has to be fine enough to mimic individual hairs because there are fewer real hairs to hide behind. The formula has to glide without dragging on fragile skin. And the shade has to account for gray, silver, or salt-and-pepper regrowth rather than assuming the wearer still has the dark, uniform brow density of a 28-year-old.
This guide cuts through the “universal shade” marketing and ranks the pencils that actually work on mature brows. It also does the math on cost per wear, explains what “waterproof” really means on a pencil label, and walks through the return policies at Sephora, Ulta, and Amazon — because a brow pencil you hate is a $25 mistake you should not have to eat.
Why Eyebrow Pencils for Older Women Are a Different Beast
Brow hair does not just thin with age. It changes texture. Follicles produce finer, sometimes wirier hairs, while the skin underneath accumulates texture, fine lines, and dryness. The combination is a perfect storm for any pencil that relies on heavy waxes or stiff pigments to deposit color.
“A common mistake I see is women over 50 continuing to use the same hard, waxy pencils they used in their 30s,” esthetician Jenneane Rocha told British Vogue. “These are formulas designed for younger, resilient skin and hair. They drag across skin, tug on fragile hairs, and create that dreaded drawn-on look”.
The practical consequence is simple: a pencil that feels pleasantly firm on a 30-year-old brow can feel like a surgical instrument on a 65-year-old one. The fix is not to press harder or to “warm up” a stubborn pencil on the back of the hand until it smears. The fix is to buy a pencil formulated for the job.
The Biology of Aging Brows (Sparse, Wiry, Gray)
Three changes matter most for product selection. First, density drops. The tails of the brows are usually the first to go, which is why so many mature faces look “surprised” or “flat” depending on how the remaining hairs sit. Second, individual hairs coarsen and curl in unpredictable directions, making it harder to create a smooth, directional stroke. Third, melanin production slows, so the brow hair that remains may be gray or white while the surrounding skin tone has also shifted.
That last point is where shade matching gets ugly. A warm brown pencil that looked “natural” against dark brown hair reads orange against bare skin or silver regrowth. A cool gray pencil can look ashy if the wearer still has warm undertones. The brands that get repeat purchases from older women are the ones that offer nuanced neutrals — ash brown, taupe, cool grey, and “soft black” — rather than a five-shade range built around brunette, dark brown, and black.
What Drugstore Pencils Get Wrong About Mature Skin
The cheapest pencils often use a high wax-to-pigment ratio because wax is inexpensive and gives the pencil structural integrity. On young, oily skin, that wax glides. On mature, drier skin, it drags. The tip also tends to be thicker — 2 mm or more — because a thicker core breaks less often in manufacturing and transit. Thick tips are fine for filling in a dense brow. On a sparse brow, they deposit pigment in swaths, not strokes.
None of this means drugstore pencils are inherently bad. It means the sub-$10 segment is bifurcated: there are pencils with genuinely fine tips and creamy-enough formulas, and there are pencils that should be used only for shading a dense brow. The picks below separate the two.
The 10 Best Eyebrow Pencils for Older Women in 2026, Ranked
The ranking weighs five factors: tip precision (can it draw a hair-like stroke?), formula glide (does it drag on mature skin?), shade realism (does it offer ash, taupe, or cool grey?), wear time (does it survive a workday and a nap?), and availability (can you buy it without a forwarding address?). Prices are US retail as of early 2026 and fluctuate with promotions.
1. Anastasia Beverly Hills ArchiBrow Pencil — Best Overall
Approx. $30 at Sephora and AnastasiaBeverlyHills.com. The ArchiBrow is the thinnest pencil Anastasia has ever made — a 0.5 mm angled blade tip that is half the thickness of the brand’s Brow Wiz — and it is the closest thing to a microblading needle you can hold without a license. The blade shape does two things a round micro-tip cannot: it lays down a tapered stroke that mimics a real hair, and it lets you apply with even pressure across the whole tip instead of concentrating force on a single point.
Glamour’s testers ranked it best overall for mature brows because the formula “glides without dragging on delicate skin” and blends “without looking harsh”. The shade range — 12 options — includes enough neutral and cool tones that most gray, ash, and salt-and-pepper situations have a plausible match. The trade-off is durability: the tip is delicate, so twist up a millimeter at a time, not a centimeter.
Who should skip it: anyone who wants a chubby, forgiving pencil for a quick swipe-and-go. ArchiBrow rewards a light hand and short strokes. If you are applying in the car at a red light, buy something else.
2. Benefit Precisely, My Brow Pencil — Best for Sparse Brows
Approx. $28 at Sephora, Ulta, and Benefit boutiques. The 1.5 mm tip on Precisely, My Brow is the reference standard for drawing individual hairs in gaps. It is fine enough to place pigment exactly where a hair is missing and stiff enough that the stroke does not bloom into a blob when it touches skin. Benefit also sells a dedicated Grey shade, which is not a universal “taupe” pretending to be gray — it is actually gray.
The weakness is fragility. The tip snaps if you twist it too far out, and the pencil runs out faster than a thicker drugstore stick because so little product is exposed per use. For a sparse-brow wearer who uses it daily, expect roughly eight to ten weeks of useful life. That works out to roughly $0.40–$0.50 per day, which is not outrageous for a product that replaces a monthly microblading top-up, but it is not a “set it and forget it” purchase.
3. Jones Road The Brow Pencil — Best for Gray Hair
Approx. $24 at Jones Road Beauty. The Jones Road pencil is the one that keeps showing up in the review sections of British newspapers under headlines about “perfect for older women.” One shopper described the Grey shade as “a perfect colour for an older woman with grey hair and very light brows”; another, at 65, said it helped her achieve a natural-looking brow despite sparse outer edges. The formula is softer and creamier than the Anastasia and Benefit micro-pencils, which makes it more forgiving on dry or textured skin.
The chubby stick format is both the appeal and the limitation. It covers ground quickly and is hard to over-apply, but it cannot draw a truly hair-like stroke the way a 0.5 mm tip can. For a wearer who wants a soft wash of color and a defined tail rather than individual-hair realism, that is a feature. For someone trying to reconstruct a brow from almost nothing, it is not precise enough on its own.
4. L'Oréal Paris Brow Stylist Definer — Best Drugstore
Approx. $9–$13 at CVS, Target, Ulta, and Amazon. Andie MacDowell, who has been public about her brow routine at 68, reportedly uses the Brow Stylist Definer and has said it works “just as good” as more expensive options. The pencil has a 0.5 mm tip, a built-in spoolie, and a waterproof mechanical format. Independent testing at The Beauty Radar scored it 9.8/10 for creating “undetectable, hair-like brow strokes” and holding definition through sweat and humidity.
The catch is the shade range. It is built around brunette, dark brown, and soft black, with limited gray or ash options. If your brows are silver or cool-toned gray, the “blonde” or “brunette” shades may pull warm. This is the best budget pick for older women whose remaining brow hair is still dark; it is not the best budget pick for fully gray brows.
5. Prime Prometics PrimeBrow Pencil — Best for Very Sparse or No Brows
Approx. $25–$42 depending on pack size and retailer. Prime Prometics is one of the few brands that markets explicitly to mature women rather than treating “older” as a shade extension. The PrimeBrow uses a micro-fine tip and a formula that includes vitamin E, which is a small but meaningful detail for skin that has become more fragile. Amazon reviewers in the 60-plus demographic repeatedly describe it as one of the few pencils that “works well for older women with grey hair and few eyebrows”.
The price is the friction point. At the higher end of the range, it costs more than Anastasia and Benefit, and the brand’s distribution is thinner than the legacy prestige players. But for a wearer with genuinely bare skin — post-chemo, alopecia, or decades of over-plucking — the combination of a fine tip and a forgiving, vitamin-E-enriched formula is worth the premium over a $9 pencil that skips and tugs.
6. NYX Professional Makeup Micro Brow Pencil — Best Budget Micro-Tip
Approx. $10–$11 at Ulta, Target, and Amazon. The NYX Micro Brow is the pencil that proves a sub-$12 product can have a genuinely fine tip. The 0.4–0.5 mm mechanical tip draws hair-like strokes, the dual-ended spoolie is functional rather than decorative, and the Ash Brown shade has a cool, neutral undertone that works for dark hair going gray. Reviewers with sparse brows consistently praise it for “naturally filling in those spots without overdoing it”.
The formula is slightly drier than the prestige picks, so it is less forgiving on very dry or flaky skin. On normal-to-oily mature skin, it wears well. On skin that has become papery after years of retinoid use, it can catch. At this price, it is a low-risk experiment: buy one shade, test it on the tail of the brow for a week, and size up only if the texture agrees with your skin.
7. Kosas Brow Pop Nano — Best Clean Formula for Sensitive Skin
Approx. $24 at Sephora and Kosas.com. Kosas built its reputation on clean formulas, and the Brow Pop Nano applies that philosophy to a 1.5 mm micro-tip. Yahoo Shopping’s mature-skin roundup included it among the artist favorites for brows that have become sparser and patchier with age, and it is a frequent pick for women who react to the waxes and preservatives in traditional pencils.
The trade-off is shade depth. The range is curated rather than exhaustive, and the deepest browns are not as deep as Anastasia’s or Benefit’s. For salt-and-pepper and medium-brown brows, the match is excellent. For very dark hair that is only just beginning to gray, the deepest shade may read slightly soft. That is not a defect — it is a preference. A softer shade is often more flattering on mature skin than a hard, dark line.
8. e.l.f. Micro-Fine Brow Pencil — Best Sub-$10 Waterproof
Approx. $5–$7 at Target, Ulta, and e.l.f. Cosmetics. The e.l.f. Micro-Fine is the budget pick for someone who wants a genuinely slim tip and waterproof wear without spending $25. The formula is smudge-resistant, the tip is fine enough for detail work, and the price is low enough that keeping one in a purse and one in a bathroom drawer is not a financial decision. British Vogue named the e.l.f. pencil its best drugstore pick for older women, which is a meaningful endorsement given how much of the prestige market that magazine tests.
The shade range is the weak point. It is smaller than NYX’s and far smaller than Anastasia’s, and the lighter shades can pull warm. For a user whose brows are still relatively dark, it is a steal. For a user who needs a true cool gray or ash, the match may not exist. At this price, however, it is worth buying one shade to test the texture before committing to a larger haul.
9. Charlotte Tilbury Brow Cheat — Best for Volume Illusion
Approx. $32 at Sephora, Nordstrom, and Charlotte Tilbury. Brow Cheat is not the finest-tipped pencil on this list, but it is one of the best at creating the illusion of volume on a brow that has thinned uniformly. The formula is buildable and slightly creamier than a traditional micro-pencil, and the shade range includes natural-looking taupes and soft browns that flatter mature skin without looking ashy or orange. Glamour’s artist panel ranked it among the best for volume on aging brows.
It is a poor choice for drawing individual hairs in a large gap. The tip is too broad for that. It is a strong choice for a wearer who still has a reasonable brow shape and wants to make the whole brow look denser and more lifted. Think of it as a soft-focus filter in pencil form, not a precision instrument.
10. Maybelline Express Brow Ultra Slim — Best for Beginners
Approx. $8–$10 at drugstores and Amazon. The Maybelline Ultra Slim has a 1.5 mm tip, a spoolie, and a formula that is easy to control — three qualities that matter more for a beginner than “ultra-pigmented” claims. Testing at The Beauty Radar scored it 9.7/10 and noted it is “easy for beginners” while still precise enough for hair-like strokes. The downside is that the fine tip slows down filling very sparse areas, and the eight-shade range is not deep enough for every undertone.
For a woman who has never used a brow pencil beyond a hurried swipe in the 1990s, this is a sensible first purchase. It is cheap, it is available everywhere, and it does not require a learning curve steep enough to produce a “why do I look angry” moment in the mirror.
Side-by-Side: Price, Tip, Waterproof Rating, and Shade Range Compared
The table below normalizes the marketing language. “Waterproof” in a pencil usually means water-resistant enough to survive sweat and humidity, not swimming laps. “Long-wear” is a brand claim, not a standardized lab result. Treat the wear column as a relative ranking based on tester reports and formula type, not a guarantee.
| Product | Approx. Price | Tip Size / Type | Waterproof Claim | Shade Range | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Anastasia ArchiBrow | $30 | 0.5 mm angled blade | Water-resistant, 12-hour wear | 12 shades | Overall precision on mature skin |
| Benefit Precisely, My Brow | $28 | 1.5 mm micro-tip | Waterproof | 12 shades incl. Grey | Sparse brows and gap-filling |
| Jones Road The Brow Pencil | $24 | Chubby stick | Waterproof | 6 shades incl. Grey | Gray hair and soft wash of color |
| L'Oréal Brow Stylist Definer | $9–$13 | 0.5 mm micro-tip | Waterproof | ~7 shades, warm-leaning | Budget pick for dark brows |
| Prime Prometics PrimeBrow | $25–$42 | Micro-fine tip | Smudge-proof, long-wear | Multiple mature-focused shades | Very sparse or no brows |
| NYX Micro Brow | $10–$11 | 0.4–0.5 mm micro-tip | Waterproof | 8+ shades incl. Ash Brown | Budget micro-tip with cool undertones |
| Kosas Brow Pop Nano | $24 | 1.5 mm micro-tip | Water-resistant | Curated neutrals | Sensitive skin and clean formula |
| e.l.f. Micro-Fine | $5–$7 | Micro-fine tip | Waterproof | Limited, warm-leaning | Sub-$10 waterproof |
| Charlotte Tilbury Brow Cheat | $32 | Medium-fine | Long-wear | Natural taupes/browns | Volume illusion on uniform thinning |
| Maybelline Ultra Slim | $8–$10 | 1.5 mm micro-tip | Waterproof | 8 shades | Beginners |
The Real Cost of “Cheap” Brow Pencils: A Year-Long Math Problem
A $9 pencil sounds like a bargain next to a $30 pencil. Over 12 months, the math often reverses.
Take the L'Oréal Brow Stylist Definer at $10. A daily user typically finishes a mechanical pencil in six to eight weeks because the exposed product is thin. Call it seven weeks. That is roughly 7.4 pencils per year, or $74 annually. The Anastasia ArchiBrow at $30 lasts longer per pencil — the blade tip deposits color efficiently, and users report three to four months of daily use — but the delicate tip can snap, which shortens the average lifespan. Assume three pencils per year at $30, or $90 annually. The gap is $16, not $60.
Now factor in the cost of the wrong shade. A $9 pencil that pulls orange against gray hair is not a $9 pencil. It is a $9 pencil plus the $28 pencil you buy two weeks later to replace it, plus the $12 micellar water you use to scrub off the orange before a meeting. The “cheap” experiment has a hidden failure cost that the sticker price does not show.
The better calculation is cost per successful wear. A $28 pencil that matches your shade and survives an eight-hour day costs roughly $0.35–$0.45 per wear if it lasts three months. A $9 pencil that requires a midday touch-up and a corrective layer of concealer costs more in time and ancillary products than the $0.10-per-wear difference suggests. This is not an argument for always buying prestige. It is an argument for buying the right shade and texture first, then optimizing price within that set.
Drugstore vs. Prestige: Where the Extra $20 Actually Goes
The prestige pencil premium pays for three things: tip engineering, pigment milling, and shade development. A 0.5 mm angled blade is harder to manufacture and more fragile in transit than a 2 mm round core, so the unit cost is higher. Finely milled pigment disperses more evenly and is less likely to skip on textured skin. A 12-shade range with nuanced ash and cool tones requires more SKUs and more color development than a five-shade brunette-to-black lineup.
What the premium does not reliably buy is wear time. Several drugstore pencils — L'Oréal, NYX, e.l.f. — are genuinely waterproof and survive a workday as well as a $30 pencil. The difference shows up in application, not longevity. If your main complaint is “it fades by lunch,” a $10 waterproof pencil may solve the problem. If your main complaint is “it looks drawn-on and drags on my skin,” the extra $20 is buying you a finer tip and a creamier formula.
There is also a placebo tax. Prestige pencils often come in heavier packaging and feel more substantial in the hand, which makes users apply more carefully. A careful application with a $10 NYX pencil beats a rushed application with a $30 Anastasia pencil every time. Technique is free. Buy the tool that supports your technique, not the one that compensates for its absence.
Waterproof, Smudge-Proof, Humidity-Proof: What Those Labels Actually Mean
In the US, cosmetic “waterproof” claims are not pre-approved by the FDA. A pencil labeled waterproof is making a marketing claim, not a regulatory guarantee. In practice, most waterproof brow pencils use a blend of waxes, polymers, and silicone resins that resist water long enough to survive sweat, light rain, and a humid commute. They are not designed for swimming, and they will break down under oil-based cleansers or prolonged rubbing.
Smudge-proof is a weaker claim than waterproof. A smudge-proof pencil resists transfer when you touch your brow, but it may still dissolve in water. Humidity-proof is essentially a marketing variation on water-resistant. For a mature user, the more useful question is not “is it waterproof?” but “does it set quickly?” A pencil that stays tacky for 30 seconds will smudge when you blink or when your sunglasses slide down your nose. A pencil that dries down in five seconds will stay put even if the waterproof claim is modest.
The practical test is simple: draw a stroke on the back of your hand, wait 30 seconds, then rub it with a dry finger. If it moves, it will move on your brow. If it stays, it has a chance of surviving a summer day. The second test: mist the stroke with water and rub again. A pencil that passes both tests is waterproof enough for daily life, regardless of what the label says.
Matching the Shade When Your Hair Is Gray, Silver, or Salt-and-Pepper
The old rule — “choose a pencil two shades darker than your hair” — breaks down when your hair is gray. If you follow it literally, a woman with silver hair should use a pencil two shades darker than silver, which is a semantic dead end. Makeup artists who work with mature clients use a different framework.
For fully gray hair, the consensus is a gray or ash-toned pencil, not a brown one. Bobbi Brown has suggested a gray pencil for fully gray hair and one shade lighter than the natural brow for salt-and-pepper. Westman Atelier’s guidance is more nuanced: choose a pencil about two shades darker than the hair on your head, but adjust for undertone — olive or golden complexions can handle a warmer brow shade even with silver hair, while cool complexions need a cooler pencil.
For salt-and-pepper brows, the goal is to unify the dark and gray hairs without erasing the gray entirely. A medium ash-brown or taupe pencil usually does this better than a dark brown, because it sits between the two extremes. A dark pencil will make the gray hairs look like wires; a very light pencil will disappear against the dark hairs. Taupe is the diplomatic middle ground.
For dark hair that is only beginning to gray, a cool ash-brown is usually the safest starting point. It mimics the depth of the remaining dark hair while neutralizing the warmth that makes gray regrowth look yellow by contrast. If the ash-brown reads too cool, mix it with a warmer shade at the front of the brow and use the cooler shade at the tail, where graying is usually most advanced.
How to Apply Pencil on Thinning Brows Without Looking Drawn-On
The most common application error on mature brows is treating the pencil like a crayon and coloring inside a stencil. That approach works on dense brows because the existing hairs absorb and diffuse the pigment. On a sparse brow, it produces a flat block of color that sits on top of the skin and highlights every line and pore.
Start at the tail. The tail is usually the sparsest area and the part of the brow that carries the most visual weight. Use short, light, upward flicks in the direction of hair growth, then blend with the spoolie before moving to the arch. Professional makeup artist Robin Schoen recommends defining the brow hairs with feathery strokes and then diffusing the pigment with the attached spoolie for a natural finish. The spoolie is not optional. It is the difference between “pencil” and “painted.”
Leave the front of the brow alone until the end. The inner corners should be the softest part of the brow; a hard line at the front reads as angry or surprised. If the front needs color, use the lightest shade in your routine and apply with the leftover pigment on the spoolie, not a fresh stroke from the pencil. Finish with a clear or tinted brow gel to lock the hairs in place and to blend the pencil into the natural hair. A tiny amount of gel also adds texture, which makes the pencil look less flat.
For shaky hands or limited fine motor control, rest the heel of your hand on your cheekbone and hold the pencil closer to the tip. The shorter the lever, the more control you have. A pencil with a built-in spoolie is also easier to manage than a separate brush, because you are not switching tools mid-application.
Buyer Protection in the US: Return Windows, Opened Makeup, and Fine Print
A brow pencil is a shade-sensitive purchase. Even with swatches and reviews, the odds of buying a pencil that looks wrong on your skin are high enough that the return policy matters as much as the formula. The three major US retailers have different rules, and the differences are not cosmetic.
| Retailer | Return Window | Opened/Used Makeup? | Refund Form | Return Shipping |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sephora | 30 days | Yes, new or gently used | Original payment method | Free prepaid label or in-store |
| Ulta Beauty | 60 days (30 full refund, 31–60 store credit) | Yes, lightly used | Original payment or merchandise credit | ~$5.95 for online returns by mail |
| Amazon (Beauty) | 30 days historically; 14-day statutory window for many Beauty items from September 2026 | Varies by seller; returns accepted if unused | Original payment method | Free for eligible items; drop-off options |
Sephora’s policy is the most straightforward for a shade gamble: 30 days, opened makeup accepted, full refund to the original payment method, free return shipping. Ulta’s window is longer — 60 days — but the refund structure is tiered: a full refund to the original payment method within 30 days, then a merchandise credit from day 31 to 60, and a $5.95 shipping fee for mail returns. If you are returning a $10 drugstore pencil, the $5.95 shipping fee eats more than half the refund. In that case, return it in-store or accept the loss and repurpose the pencil as a contour shade.
Amazon’s beauty return policy has tightened. From September 2026, many beauty and personal-care categories shifted from a voluntary 30-day return window to the statutory 14-day withdrawal period, with a transition period through October. The practical implication is that if you buy a brow pencil on Amazon and hate the shade, you have roughly two weeks to initiate the return, not a month. Check the seller’s specific policy before checkout, because third-party sellers can be stricter than Amazon itself.
The fine print that matters most: “gently used” is not a precise term. Sephora and Ulta both accept opened makeup within their windows, but a pencil that has been sharpened down to a nub or visibly contaminated may be refused at the associate’s discretion. If you are testing a shade, use it on the back of your hand or on the tail of one brow for a day, keep the receipt, and return it before the window closes. Do not wait until the pencil is half gone and then discover that “gently used” has a limit.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best eyebrow pencil for older women with sparse brows?
The Anastasia Beverly Hills ArchiBrow is the strongest all-around pick for sparse brows because its 0.5 mm angled blade draws individual hair-like strokes and glides without tugging on mature skin. If you need a drugstore alternative, the L'Oréal Brow Stylist Definer offers a 0.5 mm tip and waterproof wear for under $13, though its shade range is warmer and less gray-friendly.
Can I use a regular brow pencil if I have no eyebrows at all?
You can, but the pencil has to do more work because there is no natural hair to diffuse the pigment. Choose an ultra-fine tip (1.5 mm or thinner) and a fast-drying, smudge-proof formula. The Prime Prometics PrimeBrow and Anastasia ArchiBrow are better suited to bare skin than chubby pencils, which deposit too much pigment in one pass and look painted on.
How do I choose a brow pencil shade for gray hair?
For fully gray hair, start with a gray or ash-toned pencil rather than brown. For salt-and-pepper brows, a medium taupe or ash-brown unifies the dark and gray hairs without erasing the gray. If your skin has warm or olive undertones, a slightly warmer taupe may flatter more than a cool gray; cool complexions should stay on the ash side.
Are waterproof brow pencils harder to remove on mature skin?
Waterproof pencils resist water, not oil, so a standard oil-based cleanser or micellar water removes them without aggressive scrubbing. The bigger risk on mature skin is rubbing, not the formula itself. Press a oil cleanser onto the brow for 15–20 seconds, then wipe gently in one direction rather than scrubbing back and forth, which tugs at fragile skin.
Is powder better than pencil for thinning eyebrows?
Powder creates a softer, more diffused finish that can be flattering on mature skin, but it has less precision and less hold than a pencil. For sparse brows with visible gaps, a pencil is better at drawing individual hairs; for uniform thinning without bald patches, a powder or powder-based pencil can look more natural. Many makeup artists use both: pencil for the tail and gaps, powder for the body of the brow.
How often should I replace a brow pencil?
A mechanical micro-tip pencil typically lasts two to four months with daily use, depending on how much product is exposed per application. A chubby stick can last longer because the core is thicker. Replace the pencil when the tip starts skipping, when the formula smells off, or when you have had it for more than a year — cosmetics do expire, and a pencil that has been in a warm bathroom for 18 months is not doing your skin any favors.